Author:
Fırat Yaşa Department of History, Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart University, Çanakkale, Turkey

Search for other papers by Fırat Yaşa in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
Restricted access

In the early modern Ottoman Empire, social identity was closely tied to a hierarchical structure, with the sultanate occupying the highest tier and ordinary subjects positioned at the lower end. Empire’s inhabitants were divided into groups based on the style and color of their clothes. By dressing in clothing from a different gender, socioeconomic class, or ethnoreligious group, one could disguise their true identity and social status. This article endeavors to unveil the motivations that compelled ordinary people to employ clothing as a means to conceal their involvement in criminal activities. Furthermore, it investigates the constraints associated with common identity-altering practices, particularly from the vantage points of religion, gender, and intersectionality. Drawing from an array of archival sources such as mühimme records, chronicles, manuscripts, and qadi court registers, the article scrutinizes the consequences of these practices.

  • Açık, Turan 2014. ‘Mahalle ve Camii: Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’nda Mahalle Tipleri Hakkında Trabzon Üzerinden Bir Değerlendirme [Neighborhood and the Mosque: An Evaluation of Different Types of Neighborhood in the Ottoman Empire Through Trebizond Sample].’ Ankara Üniversitesi Osmanlı Tarihi Araştırma ve Uygulama Merkezi Dergisi 35: 139.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Açık, Turan 2015. ‘Toplumsal Cinsiyet Bağlamında Osmanlı Hukukunda Kadından Eşkıya Olup Olamayacağına Dair Bir Tartışma: Havva Hatun Örneği [A Discussion about Whether Women can be Bandit in the Ottoman Law on Gender Context: Havva Hatun Sample].’ Karadeniz Araştırmaları Enstitüsü Dergisi 1: 3594.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Altınay, Ahmet Refik 1987. Onuncu Asr-ı Hicrîde İstanbul Hayatı [Life in Istanbul – Tenth Century Hijri]. Ankara: Enderun Kitapevi.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Andrews, Walter G. & Mehmet Kalpakli 2005. The Age of Beloveds: Love and The Beloved in Early-Modern Ottoman and European Culture and Society. Durham and London: Duke University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Artan, Tülay 2011. ‘18th Century Ottoman Princesses as Collectors: Chinese and European Porcelains in the Topkapı Palace Museum.’ Ars Orientalis 39 (Globalizing Cultures: Art and Mobility in the Eighteenth Century): 113146.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Artan, Tülay 2012. ‘Forms and Forums of Expression Istanbul and Beyond, 1600-1800.’ In: Christine Woodhead (ed.) The Ottoman World. London and New York: Routledge, 378405.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Baer, Marc David 2008. ‘Manliness, Male Virtue and History Writing at the Seventeenth-Century Ottoman Court.’ Gender & History 20/1: 128148.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Baglama, Sercan Hamza 2018. The Resurrection of the Spectre :A Marxist Analysis of Race, Class and Alienation in the Post-war British Novel. Berlin: Peter Lang.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Bakırcı, Nedim 2010. ‘Köroğlu Destanlarında Köroğlu ve Binitinin Kıyafet (Şekil) Değiştirmesi [Disguise of Köroğlu and His Horse in Köroğlu Legends].’ Turkish Studies 5: 860878.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Barkey, Karen & George Gavrilis 2016. ‘The Ottoman Millet System: Non-Territorial Autonomy and its Contemporary Legacy.’ Ethnopolitics 15/1: 2442.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Behar, Cem 2003. A Neighborhood in Ottoman Istanbul: Fruit Vendors and Civil Servants in the Kasap İlyas Mahalle. Albany, NY: State University of New York Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Brubaker, Rogers & Frederick Cooper 2000. ‘Beyond “Identity”.’ Theory and Society 29/1: 147.

  • Canbakal, Hülya 2007. Society and Politics in an Ottoman Town: ‘Ayntāb in the 17th Century. Leiden and Boston: Brill.

  • Crane, Diana 2000. Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

  • Çetin, Cemal 2022. ‘The Scarlet Letter: Cases of Tarring Doors in the Ottoman Konya in the 17th and 18th Centuries.’ Acta Orientalia Hung. 75/1: 5177.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Değirmenci, Tülin 2015. ‘Osmanlı Tasvir Sanatında Görselin “Okunması”: İmgenin Ardındaki Hikâyeler (Şehir Oğlanları ve İstanbul’un Meşhur Kadınları) [Visual Reading or Reading with Images? Visuality and Orality in Ottoman Manuscript Culture (City Boys and Beautiful Women of Istanbul)].’ Osmanlı Araştırmaları 45: 2555.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Doğan, Nejla 2021. ‘Limits of Tolerance: Legal Relations between Early Ottoman Jews and the Central Authorities (15th-18th Centuries).’ Middle Eastern Studies 13/3: 447463.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Dursteller, Eric 2006. Venetians in Constantinople: Nation, Identity, and Coexistence in the Early Modern Mediterranean. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Düzdağ, M. Ertuğrul 2012. Şeyhülislâm Ebussuud Efendi Fetvaları Kanunî Devrinde Osmanlı Hayatı [Life in the Magnificent Suleyman Period of the Fatwas of Şeyhülislâm Ebussuud Efendi]. Istanbul: Kapı Yayınları.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Ergenç, Özer 1984. ‘Osmanlı Şehrindeki Mahalle’nin İşlev ve Nitelikleri Üzerine [On the Functions and Characteristics of the Neighborhood in the Ottoman City].’ Osmanlı Araştırmaları 4: 6978.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Ergenç, Özer 2014. XVI. Yüzyılın Sonlarında Bursa: Yerleşimi, Yönetimi, Ekonomik ve Sosyal Durumu Üzerine Bir Araştırma [Bursa at the End of the 16th Century: A Study on its Settlement, Administration, Economic, and Social Situation]. Ankara: Türk Tarih Kurumu.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Ergene, Boğaç A. 2010. ‘Why Did Ümmü Gülsüm Go to Court? Ottoman Legal Practice between History and Anthropology.’ Islamic Law and Society 17: 215244.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Faroqhi, Suraiya 2004a. ‘Female Costumes in the Late Fifteenth-Century Bursa.’ In: Suraiya Faroqhi & Christoph K. Neumann (eds.) Ottoman Costumes from Textile to Identity. Istanbul: Eren Yayınevi, 8191.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Faroqhi, Suraiya 2004b. The Ottoman Empire and the World Around It. London and New York: I.B. Tauris.

  • Faroqhi, Suraiya 2016. Travel and Artisans in the Ottoman Empire: Employment and Mobility in the Early Modern Era. London and New York: I.B. Tauris.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Faroqhi, Suraiya 2023. Women in the Ottoman Empire: A Social and Political History. London and New York: I. B. Tauris.

  • Faroqhi, Suraiya & Gilles Veinstein 2008. Merchants in the Ottoman Empire. Leuven: Peeters Publishers.

  • Gerber, Haim 2002. ‘The Public Sphere and Civil Society in the Ottoman Empire.’ In: Miriam Hoexter, Shmuel N. Eisenstadt & Nehemia Levtzion (eds.) The Public Sphere in Muslim Societies. Albany, NY: State University of New York Press, 6582.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Gürbüzel, Aslıhan 2018. ‘Citizens of Piety: Networks of Piety and the Public Sphere in Early Modern Ottoman Cities.’ Journal for Early Modern Cultural Studies 18/3: 6695.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Hamadeh, Shirine 2008. The City’s Pleasures: Istanbul in the Eighteenth Century. Seattle and London: University of Washington Press.

  • Hüner Cora, Nazlı İpek 2018. ‘Gendered Infidels in Fiction: A Case Study on S̱ābit’s Ḥikāye-i Ḫvāce Fesād.’ In: Hakan T. Karateke, Hakan Erdem Çipa & Helga Anetshofer (eds.) Disliking Others: Loathing, Hostility, and Distrust in Pre-Modern Ottoman Lands. Boston: Academic Studies Press, 244264.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • İnalcık, Halil & Donald Quataert 1994. An Economic and Social History of the Ottoman Empire Volume I: 1300-1600. Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • İpşirli Argıt, Betül 2005. ‘Clothing Habits, Regulations and Non-Muslims in the Ottoman Empire.’ Akademik Araştırmalar Dergisi 24: 7996.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • İpşirli Argıt, Betül 2015. ‘Osmanlı İstanbul’unda Giyim, Kuşam [Clothing and Attire in Ottoman Istanbul].’ In: Arif Bilgin (ed.) Antik Çağdan XXI. Yüzyıla Büyük İstanbul Tarihi [The Great History of Istanbul: From Antiquity to the XXIth. Century]. Istanbul: Istanbul Büyükşehir Belediyesi, 230263.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • İpşirli Argıt, Betül 2020. Life after the Harem: Female Palace Slaves, Patronage, and the Imperial Ottoman Court. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • İslamoğlu, Huricihan 1994. State and Peasant in the Ottoman Empire: Agrarian Power Relations and Regional Economic Development in Ottoman Anatolia During the Sixteenth Century. Leiden: Brill.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Kafadar, Cemal 1989. ‘Self and Others: ‘The Diary of a Dervish in Seventeenth Century Istanbul and First-person Ottoman Literature.’ Studia Islamica 69: 121150.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Kafadar, Cemal 1986. ‘A Death in Venice (1575): Anatolian Muslim Merchants Trading in the Serenissima.’ Journal of Turkish Studies 10: 191217.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Karademir, Zafer 2014. İmparatorluğun Açlıkla İmtihanı: Osmanlı Toplumunda Kıtlıklar (1560-1660) [The Empire’s Trial with Hunger: Famines in Ottoman Society (1560-1660)]. Istanbul: Kitap Yayınevi.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Khoury, Dina Rizk 1997. ‘Slippers at the Entrance or Behind Closed Doors: Domestic and Public Spaces for Mosuli Women.’ In: Madeline C. Zilfi (ed.) Women in the Ottoman Empire: Middle Eastern Women in the Early Modern Era. Leiden, New York, and Köln: Brill, 105127.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Kılıç, Rüya 2016. Osmanlıda Seyyidler ve Şerifler [Seyyids and Sherifs in the Ottoman Empire]. Istanbul: Kitap Yayınevi.

  • Kınalızâde Ali Efendi (n.d.) Ahlâk-î alâ‘î. [Trans. Hüseyin Algül] Istanbul: Kervan Kitapçılık.

  • Koyuncu, Aşkın 2004. ‘Osmanlı Kimliği Üzerine Bazı Düşünceler [Some Thoughts on Ottoman Identity].’ Hacettepe Üniversitesi Türkiyat Araştırmaları Dergisi 1/1: 203212.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Kurt, Yusuf, M. Süleyman Kaçar & Kani Işık 2007. ‘Traditional Tar Production from Cedrus libani A. Rich on the Taurus Mountains in Southern Turkey.’ Economy Botany 62/4: 615620.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Malcolm, Noel 2022. ‘Forbidden Love in Istanbul: Patterns of Male–Male Sexual Relations in the Early-Modern Mediterranean World.’ Past & Present (A Journal of Historical Studies) 257/1: 135.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Messick, Brinkley 2003. ‘Property and the Private in a Sharia System.’ Social Research 70/3: 711734.

  • Neumann, Christoph K. 2004. ‘How Did a Vizier Dress in the Eighteenth Century?’ In: Suraiya Faroqhi & Christoph K. Neumann (eds.) Ottoman Costumes from Textile to Identity. Istanbul: Eren Yayınevi, 181217.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • North, Susan 2020. Sweet and Clean?: Bodies and Clothes in Early Modern England. Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press.

  • Ortaylı, İlber 1999. ‘Osmanlı Kimliği (The Ottoman Identity).’ Cogito: The Ottomans Special Issue 19: 7785.

  • Özil, Ayşe 2013. Orthodox Christians in the Late Ottoman Empire: A Study of Communal Relations in Anatolia. London and New York: Routledge.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Peirce, Leslie P. 1993. The Imperial Harem: Women and Sovereignty in the Ottoman Empire. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press.

  • Peirce, Leslie P. 2011. ‘Abduction with (Dis)honor: Sovereigns, Brigands, and Heroes in the Ottoman World.’ Journal of Early Modern History 15: 311329.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Quataert, Donald 1997. ‘Clothing Laws, State, and Society in the Ottoman Empire, 1720-1829.’ International Journal of Middle East Studies 29/3: 403425.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Roudometof, Victor 1998. ‘From Rum Millet to Greek Nation: Enlightenment, Secularization, and National Identity in Ottoman Balkan Society, 1453-1821.’ Journal of Modern Greek Studies 16/1: 1148.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Schick, Irvin Cemil 2012. ‘Tebdil-i Kıyafet, İrtidad ve İhtida [Change of Attire, Conversion, and Apostasy].’ Acta Turcica 4/2-1: 3545.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Scott, James C. 1998. Seeing Like a State: How Certain Schemes to Improve the Human Condition Have Failed. New Haven and London: Yale University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Semerdjian, Elyse 2008. “Off the Straight Path”: Illicit Sex, Law, and Community in Ottoman Aleppo. Syracuse, NY: Syracuse University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Sönmez, Serpil 2020. III. ‘Selim’in Tebdil-i Kıyafet Bohçaları [Incognito Fardels of Selim III].’ Ankara Üniversitesi Osmanlı Tarihi Araştırma ve Uygulama Merkezi Dergisi 47: 77104.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Stilt, Kristen & Roy Mottahedeh 2003. ‘Public and Private as Viewed through the Work of the Muhtasib.’ Social Research 70/3: 735748.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Şahiner, İpek 2021. ‘Baroque Cross-Dressers in the Orient: Severo Sarduy and Pierre Loti.’ Journal of Comparative Literature and Aesthetics 44/4: 148163.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Tamdoğan, Işık 2007. ‘Atı Alan Üsküdar’ı Geçti ya da 18. yüzyılda Üsküdar’da Şiddet ve Hareketlilik İlişkisi [The One Who Takes the Horse Passes Üsküdar or Violence and Mobility Relationship in Üsküdar in the 18th Century].’ In: Noémi Lévy & Alexandre Toumarkine (eds.) Osmanlı’da Asayiş, Suç ve Ceza [Public Order, Crime, and Punishment in the Ottoman Empire]. Istanbul: Tarih Vakfı Yurt Yayınları, 8095.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Tızlak, Fahrettin 2015. ‘III. Selim Dönemi’nde İstanbul’da Fırınların ve Ekmeklerin Tebdil-i Kıyafetle Denetimi [Inspection in Plain-Clothes of the Bakeries and Quality of Bread in Istanbul According to the Hatt-ı Humayuns of Selim III].’ Cedrus 3: 337350.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Wasiucionek, Michał 2008. ‘Greek as Ottoman? Language, Identity and Mediation of Ottoman Culture in the Early Modern Period.’ Cromohs 21: 7089.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Watenpaugh, Heghnar Zeitlian 2005. ‘Deviant Dervishes: Space, Gender, and the Construction of Antinomian Piety in Ottoman Aleppo.’ International Journal of Middle East Studies 37/4: 535565.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • White, Sam 2011. The Climate of Rebellion in the Early Modern Ottoman Empire. Cambridge, New York, and Melbourne: Cambridge University Press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Yaşa, Fırat 2020. ‘Mütecessis Gözler: Osmanlı Bursa’sında Özel Alanın Muğlak Sınırları (16. Yüzyıl) [Curious Eyes: The Ambiguous Boundaries of Private Space in the Ottoman Bursa (16th. Century)].’ In: Fırat Yaşa (ed.) II. Selim Dönemi ve Bursa [The Era of Sultan Selim II and Bursa]. Bursa: Gaye Kitapevi, 517533.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Yılmaz, Fikret 2016. ‘The Line between Fornication and Prostitution: The Prostitute Versus the Subaşı (Police Chief).’ Acta Orientalia Hung. 69/3: 249264.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Zilfi, Madeline 2019. ‘Women, Minorities and the Changing Politics of Dress in the Ottoman Empire, 1650-1830.’ In: Giorgio Riello & Ulinka Rublack (eds.) The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 393415.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Collapse
  • Expand
The author instructions are available in PDF.
Please, download the file from HERE.

 

Senior editors

Editor(s)-in-Chief: Gábor KÓSA

Editorial Board

  • Benedek PÉRI (Eötvös Loránd University)
  • Ágnes BIRTALAN (Eötvös Loránd University)
  • Csaba DEZSŐ (Eötvös Loránd University)
  • Peter B. GOLDEN (Rutgers University)
  • Arlo GRIFFITHS (École française d'Extrême-Orient)
  • Imre HAMAR (Eötvös Loránd University)
  • Zoltán SZOMBATHY (Eötvös Loránd University)
  • István VÁSÁRY(Eötvös Loránd University)
  • Yutaka YOSHIDA (Kyoto University)
  • Peter ZIEME (Berlin-Brandenburg Academy of Sciences and Humanities)

 

Dr. Gábor Kósa
Editor-in-Chief
Institute of East Asian Studies
Eötvös Loránd University
Múzeum krt. 4/F
H-1088 Budapest, Hungary
kosa.gabor@btk.elte.hu

Indexing and Abstracting Services:

  • Arts and Humanities Citation Index
  • Bibliographie Linguistique/Linguistic Bibliography
  • Historical Abstracts
  • International Bibliographies IBZ and IBR
  • MLA International Bibliography
  • SCOPUS

2023  
Web of Science  
Journal Impact Factor 0.1
Rank by Impact Factor Q3 (History)
Journal Citation Indicator 0.68
Scopus  
CiteScore 0.4
CiteScore rank Q1 (Literature and Literary Theory)
SNIP 0.749
Scimago  
SJR index 0.302
SJR Q rank Q1

Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae
Publication Model Hybrid
Submission Fee none
Article Processing Charge 900 EUR/article
Printed Color Illustrations 40 EUR (or 10 000 HUF) + VAT / piece
Regional discounts on country of the funding agency World Bank Lower-middle-income economies: 50%
World Bank Low-income economies: 100%
Further Discounts Editorial Board / Advisory Board members: 50%
Corresponding authors, affiliated to an EISZ member institution subscribing to the journal package of Akadémiai Kiadó: 100%
Subscription fee 2025 Online subsscription: 620 EUR / 684 USD
Print + online subscription: 716 EUR / 788 USD
Subscription Information Online subscribers are entitled access to all back issues published by Akadémiai Kiadó for each title for the duration of the subscription, as well as Online First content for the subscribed content.
Purchase per Title Individual articles are sold on the displayed price.

Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae
Language English
Size B5
Year of
Foundation
1950
Volumes
per Year
1
Issues
per Year
4
Founder Magyar Tudományos Akadémia  
Founder's
Address
H-1051 Budapest, Hungary, Széchenyi István tér 9.
Publisher Akadémiai Kiadó
Publisher's
Address
H-1117 Budapest, Hungary 1516 Budapest, PO Box 245.
Responsible
Publisher
Chief Executive Officer, Akadémiai Kiadó
ISSN 0001-6446 (Print)
ISSN 1588-2667 (Online)