View More View Less
  • 1 Surfactant Technology Department, IQAC-CSIC, Jordi Girona 18–26, 08034, Barcelona, Spain
  • | 2 Agresearch, Private Bag 4749, Christchurch, New Zealand
Restricted access

Abstract

Water has a considerable effect on human keratin fibres, such as nails, and is therefore crucial for their cosmetic performance. Wool proteins are mild, natural, biodegradable and are sustainably produced with multiple functionalities. They have a potential for use in the cosmetic and detergent markets. The effectiveness of two wool keratin ingredients in restoring the water sorption characteristics of nails was determined. Acetone treatment modified nail water sorption, resulting in an increase in water sorption capacity and in nail permeability. The application of keratin peptides and proteins to healthy and damaged nails improved water sorption properties, reducing permeability, especially in the case of wool keratin protein treatment.

  • 1. Schumacher, E, Dindorf, W, Dittmar, M 2009 Exposure to toxic agents alters organic elemental composition in human fingernails. Sci Total Environ 407:21512157 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 2. Egawa, M, Ozaki, Y, Takahashi, M 2006 In vivo measurement of water content of the fingernail and its seasonal change. Skin Res Technol 12:126132 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 3. van de Kerkhof, PC Pasch, MC, Scher, MK, Kerscher, M, Gieler, U, Haneke, E, Fleckman, P 2005 Brittle nail syndrome: a pathogenesis-based approach with a proposed grading system. J Am Acad Dermatol 53:644651 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 4. Uyttendaele, H, Geyer, A, Scher, RK 2003 Brittle nails: pathogenesis and treatment. J Drugs Dermatol 2:4849.

  • 5. Gawkrodger, DJ 1992 Dermatology: an illustrated colour text Churchill Livingstone Edinburgh, NY.

  • 6. Fitzpatrick, B 1993 Dermatology in general medicine 4 I McGraw-Hill New York.

  • 7. Gunt, HB, Kasting, GB 2007 Equilibrium water sorption characteristics of the human nail. Int J Cosmet Sci 29:487 .

  • 8. Watt, IC Sorption of water vapour by keratins. J Macromol Sci-Rev Macromol Chem 1980 18:169245.

  • 9. Manich AM , Maldonado F, Carrilla J, Catalina M, Marsal A. Moisture absorption/desorption kinetics of bovine powder. J Soc Leather Tech Chem. 2009.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 10. Wortmann JF , Hullmann A, Popescu C. IFSCC magazine. 2007; 10.

  • 11. Pierlot, AP 1999 Water in wool. Textile Res J 69 2 97103 .

  • 12. Rosenbaum, S 1970 Solution in water in polymers: the keratin-water isotherm. J Polym Sci 31C:4555.

  • 13. Manich AM , Maldonado F, Carrilla J, Catalina M, Marsal A. Moisture sorption/desorption of collagen. J Am Leather Chem 2010; In press.

  • 14. Timmermann, E 2003 Multilayer sorption parameters: BET or GAB values?. Colloids Surf A 220:235260 .

  • 15. Gleason-Allured, JB 2006 The blossoming of naturals: Part 1: the buying public. Cosmet Toilet 121:5455.

  • 16. Roddick-Lanzilotta, A, Kelly, R, Scott, S, Chahal, S 2007 New keratin isolates: actives for natural hair protection. J Cosmet Sci 58:405411.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 17. Barba C , Martí M, Roddick-Lanzilotta A, Manich AM, Carrilla J, Parra JL, Coderch L. Effect of wool keratin proteins and peptides on hair water sorption kinetics. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2010. doi: .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 18. Barba C , Martí M, Roddick-Lanzilotta A, Kelly R, Méndez S, Manich AM, Parra JL, Coderch L. Restoring important hair properties with wool keratin proteins and peptides. Fibers and Polymers 2010; in press.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 19. Barba, C, Mendez, S, Roddick-Lanzilotta, A, Kelly, R, Parra, JL, Coderch, L 2007 Wool peptide derivatives for hand care. J Cosmet Sci 58:99107.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 20. Barba, C, Mendez, S, Roddick-Lanzilotta, A, Kelly, R, Parra, JL, Coderch, L 2008 Cosmetic effectiveness of topically applied hydrolysed keratin peptides and lipids derived from wool. Skin Res Technol 14:243248 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 21. Tonon R , Baroni A, Brabet C, Guibert O, Pallet D, Hubinger M. Effect of stirring on osmotic dehydration of yellow pitahaya (Selenicereus megalanthus s.). J Food Eng. 2009; 419.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 22. Zografi, G, Kontny, M, Yang, A, Brenner, G 1984 Surface area and water sorption of microcrystalline cellulose. Int J Pharm 18:99116 .

  • 23. Jonqueries, A, Fane, A 1998 Modified BET models for modelling water sorption in hydrophilic glassy polymers and systems deviating strongly from ideality. J Appl Polym Sci 67:14151430 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 24. Lewicki, P 1997 The applicability of the GAB model to food water sorption isotherms. Int J Food Sci Technol 32:553557 .

  • 25. Pradas, M, Samchez, S, Ribelles, FGJ 2004 Thermodynamics and statistical mechanics of multilayer adsorption. J Chem Phys 121:85248531 .

  • 26. Brunauer, S, Emmet, P, Teller, E 1938 Adsorption of gases in multimolecular layers. J Am Chem Soc 60:309319 .

  • 27. Anderson, R 1946 Modifications of the Brunauer, Emmet and Teller equation. J Am Chem Soc 68:686691 .

  • 28. Arslan, N, Toğrul, H 2006 The fitting of various models to water sorption isotherms of tea stored in a chamber under controlled temperature and humidity. J Stored Prod Res 42 2 112135 .

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 29. Vickerstaff T . The physical chemistry of dyeing. London: Oliver and Boid; 1954.

  • 30. Sugawara, T, Kawai, M, Suzuki, T 1999 J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn 33:283289.

  • 31. Sugawara, T, Kawai, M, Suzuki, T 1999 The relationship between moisture content and mechanical properties of fingernails. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn 33:364369.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 32. Sugawara T . The relationship between moisture content and mechanical properties of fingernails. Part 3. J Soc Cosmet Chem Jpn. 2003;33.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 33. Barba C , Martí M, Manich AM, Carillia J, Parra JL, Coderch L. Water absorption/desorption of human hair and nails. Thermochim Acta 2010.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • 34. Kechijian, P 1991 Nail polish removers: are they harmful?. Semin Dermatol 10:2628.

Manuscript Submission: HERE

  • Impact Factor (2019): 2.731
  • Scimago Journal Rank (2019): 0.415
  • SJR Hirsch-Index (2019): 87
  • SJR Quartile Score (2019): Q3 Condensed Matter Physics
  • SJR Quartile Score (2019): Q3 Physical and Theoretical Chemistry
  • Impact Factor (2018): 2.471
  • Scimago Journal Rank (2018): 0.634
  • SJR Hirsch-Index (2018): 78
  • SJR Quartile Score (2018): Q2 Condensed Matter Physics
  • SJR Quartile Score (2018): Q2 Physical and Theoretical Chemistry

For subscription options, please visit the website of Springer.

Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry
Language English
Size A4
Year of
Foundation
1969
Volumes
per Year
4
Issues
per Year
24
Founder Akadémiai Kiadó
Founder's
Address
H-1117 Budapest, Hungary 1516 Budapest, PO Box 245.
Publisher Akadémiai Kiadó
Springer Nature Switzerland AG
Publisher's
Address
H-1117 Budapest, Hungary 1516 Budapest, PO Box 245.
CH-6330 Cham, Switzerland Gewerbestrasse 11.
Responsible
Publisher
Chief Executive Officer, Akadémiai Kiadó
ISSN 1388-6150 (Print)
ISSN 1588-2926 (Online)

Monthly Content Usage

Abstract Views Full Text Views PDF Downloads
May 2021 5 0 0
Jun 2021 0 0 0
Jul 2021 1 0 0
Aug 2021 1 0 0
Sep 2021 4 0 0
Oct 2021 3 0 0
Nov 2021 0 0 0